Paula's Choice Salicylic Acid Review - The Acne Experiment

I waited half a month to post this review. Was hoping the results would change retroactively? Perhaps. Whatever, no matter, I'm here now. Let's do this.

How to Publish a Blog Post in 20 Easy Steps

1. Brain storm approximately 10 different blog post ideas.
   

Male Bag: Another Letter to Leonardo DiCaprio

Dear Leonardo DiCaprio,

As promised, I am following up to the letter I sent you in July of 2013. I said I would contact you after watching Django Unchained, but I didn't. Life happens. I'm so sorry. I was inspired to write again when I saw that article in The Atlantic about how you've turned into a risk-averse actor. I won't lie - it stung a little. I hope your majestic, ungoverned beard brings you solace.

Do Natural AHA and BHA Alternatives Work? :: A Beginner's Guide (Part 3)

When I started The Acne Experiment, I stated that I wanted to create a streamlined regimen. My main focus was that holistic acne cures tend to have less ingredients in them, and I figured it would make it easier to hone in on the ingredients that are helping and those that are triggers. As fun as being an acne detective is, it can be frustrating to try and piece together what may or may not be causing problems when your face is messing with your self esteem.

While I still want this, I realize that sometimes "natural cures" are not potent enough or appropriately formulated to relieve acne entirely. Not all "natural cures" (like some essential oils* and plant extracts, for example) are even safe choices for acne prone or reactive skin. I'm going to reiterate a skincare platitude I've been seeing everywhere recently: Just because it's "natural," doesn't mean it's safe. Just because it's not "natural," doesn't mean it's toxic. Additionally, just because it's "natural," doesn't mean it can't cause break-outs; that includes anything I put in this article.

I'm happy to report, however, that many chemical exfoliants do have holistic counterparts. I'm less happy to report that some of these "natural treatments" are ineffective, while others are downright terrible for skin. If we keep in mind that AHAs are most effective under a pH of 3-4, while BHAs are best under a pH of 3, we can break down the effectiveness of each of these home remedies with science. As with any skincare, spot test first to make sure you're not sensitive to it (I'm no doctor, people):

1. Salicylic Acid - White Willow Bark Extract
   
   Salicylic Acid is derived from white willow bark, so it makes sense that people would make the mental leap to say white willow bark IS salicylic acid. White willow bark contains a substance called "salicin." Salicin is a gentle alternative to aspirin, but it is not a BHA like salicylic acid is; it does not convert to salicylic acid in water like aspirin does either. It requires enzymes in the intestines and liver to do that. ... which would be a super fun DIY! ...no?
   
   White willow bark/salicin does have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties, so it's not a terrible choice for acne. It's just not going to exfoliate like a properly formulated BHA will. Note: White willow bark contains tannins, so if you are sensitive, don't use it.
   
   Technique: Steep about a tablespoon of white willow bark in 1/3 cup boiling water (the same way you would tea) for about 10 minutes. If you don't do this in a tea bag, filter out the white willow bark with a coffee filter after it's steeped. Once cooled, you'll have a simple toner that you can apply with a cotton ball. You can spruce it up with tea tree oil, jojoba oil, or ACV if you like. (This is my review of Aspirin for skincare.)


2. Malic Acid/Lactic Acid - Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)
   
   I love this option because it is simple and natural, but still regulated, so it will give more consistent results. Raw unfiltered ACV has a pH of about 3, making it ideal for chemical exfoliation. While Bragg ACV contains about 5% acid, I'd wager most of that is acetic acid (it's vinegar, natch). I couldn't find any information about the specific concentration of malic/lactic acids in undiluted ACV, but I suspect it is fairly low. Malic acid is also a very weak AHA because of its molecule size, FYI.
   
   Technique: ACV can be used as a toner (leave it on for 20 minutes then rinse), in a clay mask (instructions + review here), and also makes a great natural conditioner (dilute it 50/50 with water). I've tried it as a hair rinse and it made my hair super soft and shiny. Be forewarned however, if you put ACV in your hair you will smell like rotting fruit until it dries; you may attract wild animals in the meantime (boy do dogs love the rot).


3. Lactic Acid - Plain Yogurt (and other sour dairy)
   
   Plain yogurt has a pH of 4.0 which puts it in the right range for an effective AHA; unfortunately, it contains less than 1% lactic acid which is not ideal. Buttermilk, with a lactic acid concentration of 3-4%, is a better choice, but it's higher pH (4.5) makes less of that percentage available for exfoliation.
   
   Technique: If you want to give buttermilk a try, you can apply with a cotton ball, leave it on for 20 minutes, then rinse it off. Plain yogurt can be used as a mask - apply for 20 minutes then rinse. Add some manuka honey for an antiseptic kick.


4. Tartaric Acid - Cream of Tartar
   
   Tartaric acid is a byproduct of winemaking and a close relative to cream of tartar, aka potassium bitartrate. Cream of tartar is frequently used in baking and is considered weakened tartaric acid for that purpose. Cream of tartar is an acidic salt with a pH of 4.85, which is a touch too high for effective exfoliation. Additionally, because tartaric acid is already a weaker AHA due to it's large molecule size, I can't imagine cream of tartar would be an effective exfoliant on its own.
   
   Technique: You can try cream of tartar as a mask or toner by mixing it with water or ACV (or a combo of the two). I found very little on this particular ingredient online, and I haven't tried it myself, so I can't recommend specifics. Proceed with caution.


5. Tartaric Acid/Malic Acid - Unripe Grapes
   
   Grapes have a pH of about 2.8-3.8, which isn't too shabby. The issue is more about the concentration of Tartaric & Malic Acids, which are found in fruits in trace amounts. Additionally, as a grape matures, their acids are replaced by glucose (sugar). Glucose is not an AHA.
   
   Technique: If you'd like to try unripe grapes as a face mask, mash them up, apply for 20 minutes, then rinse.


6. Glycolic Acid - Sugar/Sugarcane
   
   The idea is that since glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, that sugar by itself can be used as a DIY chemical exfoliant. Even if you disregard the fact that sugar does not contain AHAs without being processed, plain white sugar has a pH of 5.0-6.0 which is too high for exfoliation.
   
   Technique: If you really want to put something sweet on your face, I recommend exploring the exhilarating world of Manuka Honey. While it isn't a chemical exfoliant, manuka honey is antiseptic and a fantastic healing agent. It can be used as a spot treatment, a mask, or a cleanser. (This is the exact kind of Manuka Honey I use. It's not cheap, but it lasts forever).


7. Glycolic Acid - Fruits (Unripe or Green Papaya, Pineapple)
   
   Pineapple ranges in pH from 3.20-4.00, and Papaya ranges in pH from 5.20-6.00. The "unripe" part is important because pH goes up (ie the fruit becomes less acidic) as the fruit matures. In this case, pineapple should fall in the correct range, while papaya would have to be super unripe to hit a really effective pH. As stated previously, glycolic acid is found in fruits in trace amounts.
   
   Papaya also contains a substance called "papain" which has exfoliation and restorative properties in it's purest form (ie processed from fruit, not directly applied from the flesh of fruit); it can also be classified as an irritant. Papaya and Pineapple also contain pantothenic acid and folic acid, but neither are AHAs. Additionally, people that are allergic to latex may also be allergic to papaya.
   
   Technique: If you'd like to test out green papaya or pineapple as a face mask, blend the flesh of the fruit, apply for 20 minutes, then rinse. You can also combine it with plain yogurt to get a little lactic acid boost, or with manuka honey for some antibacterial action.


8. Citric Acid - Citrus Fruits (lemon, orange, lime, grapefruit)
   
   I've seen this one all over the place: Rub a half of a lemon on your face to fade hyper-pigmentations! It sounds great in theory, but the reality is at home citric acid "exfoliation" is an awful idea. Lemon has a pH as low as 2 (which is actually fine from an exfoliant perspective), but it's phototoxic which means it makes your skin super sensitive to the sun (think burns and hyper-pigmentation - we're trying to get rid of those right?). Plus citric acid is not even that great of a chemical exfoliant when used on its own (it's used primarily pH adjuster). Bottom line: Citrus juice should not be applied to the skin.

The biggest issue with using DIYing an AHA or BHA is that you have very little control over concentration or potency. In the case of fruit, you're held at the whim of mother nature: fruit pH varies between the individual fruits, different varieties, and the stages of ripeness. Also, the amount of hydroxy acids in these natural options is probably not high enough to be as effective as a formulated AHA or BHA would be. This is not to say that a homemade mask or toner is not beneficial to some - there are a lot of people out there that love them. As can be said for virtually any skincare product: Regardless of what you read on the Internet, do not expect miracles.

So, meh, worst case, a DIY exfoliant could end up ineffective. Actually, scratch that, the actual worst case is skin damage, sun sensitivity, and a messed up acid mantel (the face has a pH of 5.5). Luckily, only one DIY choice listed here has a serious potential to damage skin: lemon and other citrus. Avoid those.

Out of the other seven options, the raw, unfiltered apple cider vinegar is my favorite for acne treatment. It may not be the best exfoliator, but I have personally seen skincare benefits from an Aztec Clay mask. I've also tried a greek yogurt mask, and while it didn't help me, it didn't hurt me either. It might be worth a shot if you've got some extra Oikos hanging around your fridge.

If you're looking for an effective, but "natural" AHA or BHA, my recommendation is to go with a holistic brand like Garden of Wisdom (GOW). They disclose pH and percent concentration of their chemical exfoliants while offering a range of trial sized, low-ingredient exfoliants (salicylic, glycolic, lactic, and mandelic). Keep in mind that if you do go with a preservative free product, you may need to refrigerate it.

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*The following are some of the essential oils & extracts that are classified as irritants and may be a bad choice for certain sensitive/reactive/acne-prone skin, especially if used in high concentration: thyme, oregano, clove, cinnamon, cumin, lemongrass, citrus (lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit, bergamot, angelica, limonene), menthol, eucalyptus, mint, peppermint, wintergreen, linalool, camphor, and lavender. (source, source, source)

It's important to note that many of these fruit/plant extracts/oils are found in both natural and traditional skincare products, so if a product is causing irritation or an allergic-like reaction, check the ingredients. Everyone's skin reacts differently to these things.

Even if irritation is not a concern, some products tout exfoliation abilities based on the addition of certain extracts/oils. If you're looking at labels, know that there is a difference between a plant extract and an actual alpha/beta hydroxy acid. A "natural" brand can rip you off the same as a traditional brand can.

PS: I'm really curious to know what "plant extracts" were in the facial that one beauty blogger received. Eeesh.

(pH source)

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This is Part 3 of my 3 part series on chemical exfoliants:

Part 1:  A Beginner's Guide to AHAs & BHAs
Part 2:  10 Things to Know Before Using an AHA or BHA
Part 3:  Do Natural AHA and BHA Alternatives Work?

ALL Acne Experiment Posts are listed at The Acne Experiment MOTHER HUB.

Do Natural AHA and BHA Alternatives Work? :: Crappy Candle

10 Things to Know Before Using an AHA or BHA - A Beginner's Guide (Part 2)

This is part 2 of my 3 part "Beginner's Guide to AHAs and BHAs." If you have no idea what an AHA/BHA is, head on over to Part 1 first. If you've already decided to try an AHA or BHA, good for you toots. Here are 10 things to keep in mind before using a chemical exfoliant:

1. AHAs and BHAs can result in purging. (sorry.) Purging is characterized by small whiteheads in usual trouble spots. New inflamed cystic acne after AHA/BHA use, especially if it's not in the usual trouble spots, is probably not purging; It's probably a big angry skin tantrum. (double sorry.)
   
   Tip: Department store cosmetic counters and mid-high end brand retailers - like Sephora - will often provide samples if you ask for them.
   
   Brands that sell trial/travel sizes or "starter kits": Paula's Choice (the only brand I've found that sells proper 1 use samples), MUAC (peels and trial sizes), Garden of Wisdom (trial sizes), Dermalogica, Murad (at Sephora), Peter Thomas Roth (at Sephora), Mario Badescu, Devita, Philosophy, Aveda, Proactiv, and Clinique.
2. If an AHA or BHA isn't giving you ideal results after a month or so, it's probably time to move on to something new. Keep in mind, the active ingredient may not be the issue - you may just need a different formulation.
   
   Tip: Sephora and CVS accept returns on opened/used cosmetics.
   
   Brands that offer a 30 day (or more) money back guarantee: Paula's Choice, Proactiv, Perricone MD, Murad, Kiehls, Clarisonic, StriVectin, and Juice Beauty. 
3. So long as your skin agrees with the product, chemical exfoliants tend to result nooice improvements in skin texture in the beginning. This is the "honeymoon" period. I'm sorry to tell you that your skin will not continue to improve at this pace and become a poreless marshmallow.
   
   Tip: Skin tends to look better in the morning because skin tends to be puffier in the morning, thereby "hiding" the imperfections. Wait at least an hour after you wake up to gauge your progress.
4. After these improvements "plateau" it's important to continue using the product, otherwise you might see your thick, flakey, spotted, witch skin come back.
   
   Tip: Once an exfoliant is working well, you may find that backing off of the application frequency is fine. For example, if you were applying twice a day, after awhile, you may find you only need to apply once a day to maintain it. Everyone's skin is different.
5. Be wary of the term "chemical peel." Some everyday type exfoliants are falsely marketed as a peel despite their concentration. An AHA "peel" is in the 20-30% to 70% range, while a BHA "peel" is typically between 20% and 30%.  It's always safest to have a professional or MD take care of peels, especially the really potent ones and especially if you've never done it before.
   
   Tip: It's natural to want to go balls-out with exfoliant: Let's kick this up 10 notches! I'm gonna make my face look like a baby butt! In reality, you may not need it. AHAs are very effective at about 10% while BHAs are great at 1-2%. You can go a little higher than this with at-home treatments, but if you push it too far you'll risk irritation, skin damage, and infection. (If you really want to do an at-home peel, read this.)
6. Even a non-peel chemical exfoliant can be problematic for certain skin. If an AHA or BHA makes your skin red or inflamed, you're probably using it too frequently or using a too-high concentration.
   
   Tip: If your skin is irritated, step away from the exfoliant. Step towards the moisturizer.
7. If your skin is really messed up and/or painful after AHA or BHA use, it might be a serious chemical burn or an allergic reaction.
   
   Tip: Step towards the doctor.
8. In fact, your skin shouldn't really burn or sting after at-home exfoliant use. Keep an eye on intense tingling because that particular variety might be too strong for your skin.
   
   Tip: Apply the exfoliant 10 minutes after cleansing to cut down on irritation. If your skin is burning, rinse it off.
9. Both AHAs and BHAs can improve the effectiveness of other skincare products because they "clear the way" for additional ingredients to get in there and do their thing. As a result, chemical exfoliants should be applied after cleansing, but before the application of serums, lotions, or acne spot treatments. Mild, non-alcohol toners can be applied before an exfoliant, post cleansing.
   
   Tip: Give AHA/BHA exfoliants 20-30 minutes to absorb before applying anything else.
10. Chemical exfoliants dissolve the dead skin that's normally on the face, exposing that fresh new skin to the sun a bit more than it normally (as compared to that still dead-skin hide we normally have). Regardless of what you might read elsewhere, this includes both AHA & BHAs because both exfoliate the surface of the skin. It is recommended to always wear sun protection during the day, especially if you're using an exfoliant.
    
    Tip: Exfoliants, on their own, are not phototoxic. This doesn't mean that a phototoxic ingredient is not in the product you're using, however. When looking for a good exfoliant, avoid the following ingredients: citrus essential oils (lemon, orange, lime, grapefruit, bergamont, etc), ginger, cumin.
    
    Retinoids can make your skin sensitive to the sun in the same way chemical exfoliants do, and certain medications are phototoxic, so be careful if you're using them in conjunction with an exfoliant.

I know that the thought of applying SPF to acne prone skin is scary, but it's really important to do so you don't permanently damage your skin with the fire of the sun. I myself opt for hats and hermit-like behavior unless I know I'm going to be outside all afternoon*. I cannot recommend this reckless behavior to others, especially for the fair skinned among you and especially if you're doing a high potency peel. I'm a terrible role model.

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*I use Kinesys sunscreen on my face and body. It doesn't break me out, but it is quite greasy, so I usually reserve it for lake days and outdoor calisthenics. Raise your left hock. Aerate! 


This is Part 2 of my 3 part series on chemical exfoliants:

Part 1:  A Beginner's Guide to AHAs & BHAs
Part 2:  10 Things to Know Before Using an AHA or BHA
Part 3:  Do Natural AHA and BHA Alternatives Work?

ALL Acne Experiment Posts are listed at The Acne Experiment MOTHER HUB

10 Things to Know Before Using an AHA or BHA :: Crappy Candle

AHAs and BHAs - A Beginner's Guide (Part 1)

It's been 5 months since I kicked off The Acne Experiment; last month I started testing out more traditional products. I'll be doing review on two Paula's Choice salicylic acid exfoliators in the next few weeks (the review is here), but before I get to that, I thought it would be prudent to talk a little about why I opted to try these kinds of products, and what they can do for the skin.

I chose to try formulated products because I know acne can be caused by a hell of a lot of things. Sometimes acne is caused by products you are using, other times it is caused by products you aren't using, and sometimes it's caused by something entirely unrelated (like diet, hormones, genetics, or environment). I'd be willing to wager that more often than not, it's a combination of all three of these issues. I know that for me at least, there are even zones of my face that respond to certain things better than others.

As such, simply replacing existing cleaners, moisturizers, and treatments with natural alternatives may not be enough to cure acne. Often times, more potent active ingredients are needed to make skin clear.

Enter, chemical exfoliants.

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are the two classes of chemical exfoliants. Chemical exfoliants work in a similar way to physical exfoliants (like a Clarisonic, microdermabrasion, or a face scrub) in that they remove the built-up dead skin cells to reveal new, smoother skin. Both chemical and physical exfoliation can be beneficial for acne because those dead skin cells are a component to acne formation -- when combined with sebum, they can clog pores. Exfoliation is also beneficial for anti-aging, scarring, and hyper-pigmentation, as well as other non-acne skin conditions such as keratosis pilaris or melasma. Chemical is often recommended over physical because, when applied with the proper technique and dosage, chemical tends to be gentler on the skin.

Here's how AHAs and BHAs differ:

Main Qualities of Chemical Exfoliants

AHA - Alpha Hydroxy Acid	BHA - Beta Hydroxy Acid
AHAs exfoliate the surface of the skin	BHAs exfoliate the surface of the skin and inside pores
AHAs are water soluble	BHAs are fat/oil soluble
AHAs tend to moisturize skin	BHAs tend to dry out skin
AHAs have humectant qualities	BHAs have antibacterial qualities
AHAs have been shown to build collagen	BHAs have been shown to reduce inflammation

BHAs are most frequently recommended for acne because it can get down into pores, while AHAs tend to be recommended for anti-aging benefits and skin texture improvements. This is not to say that AHAs are not beneficial to acne-prone skin or that BHAs are only for acne-prone skin, however. The combination of the other, non-exfoliant ingredients may determine what works best for your skin. Additionally, some AHAs are less moisturizing, and others have antibacterial qualities. There are a few fantastic AHAs, so if you're looking for something for acne, you shouldn't limit yourself to browsing one kind.

The following are the 7 chemical exfoliants you're most likely in anti-acne and anti-aging skin care products:

• Salicylic Acid - Salicylic is the one and only BHA for skin. In skincare circles, the terms are often used interchangeably. Salicylic Acid is most effective as an all over exfoliator in 1% to 2% concentration, but can also be used at a higher % as a spot treatment. Salicylic Acid is a relative of Aspirin (be careful with those allergies, guys).  AKAs: 2-hydroxybenzoic acid, benzoic acid
• Recommended Brands: Paula's Choice (2%), Stridex (2% - red box), Neutrogena (2% - this one contains alcohol, so I only use it sparingly as a spot treatment or to disinfect the nose part of my glasses, doncha know)
• My Review of Paula's Choice Salicylic Acid
• Glycolic Acid - Glycolic Acid is the biggie when it comes to AHAs. Most major brands that make an AHA product will use Glycolic in their formulations. It is most effective in the 8% to 10% concentrations, but as your skin adapts, you may be able to handle more potent stuff. Glycolic Acid is distinct from other AHAs because it has the smallest, simplest molecular structure. This means it is a good choice for potent acne fightin', but it is also the most likely to irritate.  AKAs: hydroxyacetic acid, hydroxyethanoic acid 
• Recommended Brands: Paula's Choice (10%), Acne.org (10%), Alpha Hydrox (14%)
• My Review of Paula's Choice Glycolic Acid
• Lactic Acid - Lactic Acid is another popular choice of Alpha Hydroxy Acids. In my experience, I have found Lactic Acid to be very moisturizing. This is because it is a humectant (ie it attracts water). Lactic Acid is fantastic for dry skin. It is most effective in 5% to 10% concentrations.  AKAs: milk acid, hydroxypropanoic acid
• Recommended Brands: St. Ives* (5%), if you're looking for body exfoliation, AmLactin lotion (12%) is amazing
  *2/18/15 - St. Ives Exfoliating pads have been been discontinued :( The best replacements I can find that are ONLY lactic acid are from Silk Naturals and GOW. I'll be offering more info on this when I do a proper St. Ives review in a few weeks. (the review is DONE and HERE; So is my Silk Naturals review, it's HERE)
• Mandelic Acid - This is a "new kid on the block" amongst AHAs. Mandelic Acid has a molecular structure that is larger than both Lactic and Glycolic Acids, making it a gentler choice for sensitive or reactive skin; because it's so new, very little has been written about it. What we do know is that it is moderately humectant (moisturizing) and it has anti-microbial properties. Mandelic Acid is made from bitter almonds. (What the what is a bitter almond?)  AKAs: amygdalic acid, almond acid, benzeneacetic acid 
• Recommended Brands: Garden of Wisdom (GOW has questionable preservatives, so I'd refrigerate), Makeup Artist's Choice (This one is 25% potency, which means it is technically a peel, plus it contains alcohol which is not ideal. I haven't tried it myself, but this gal has. I'd avoid if your skin is sensitive.)
• My Review of Garden of Wisdom's Mandelic Acid
• Malic Acid - Malic acid comes from apples and unripe fruit, and is part of the reason why Raw Unflitered Apple Cider Vinegar is such a good choice for natural skincare. Malic Acid is one of the larger AHA molecules, so it's quite gentle (and frequently combined with other AHA formulations).  AKAs: Apple Acid, Fruit Acid (this is ambiguous though since citric, glycolic, and tartaric are all technically "fruit acids")
• Recommended Brand: Bragg or Trader Joes - It's also great in hair, but it stinks while drying.
• Citric Acid - Derived from citrus fruits, citric acid is an AHA, but is usually used in conjunction with other ingredients in good skin care products. Citric acid is used primarily as a means to adjust the pH of an AHA chemical exfoliant to their most effective level.  AKA: aciletten
• Tartaric Acid - Tartaric acid is derived from grapes and found in wine. It is often used to adjust pH of different cosmetics & products, but can also be used as an exfoliant in the same way other fruit acids are used. Like citric acid, tartaric is a larger molecule, making it ideal to use in conjunction with other exfoliants to "pave the way" for smaller AHAs to get in there and do their thing. (source)  AKAs: threaric acid, uvic acid

A note on Paula's Choice: Paula's Choice is a very useful resource even if you don't use their products. They sell a full line of skincare/cosmetics, but they have a ton of useful articles and something called the "Beautypedia" where they analyze the ingredients and effectiveness of cosmetics from a ton of brands. This is especially exciting if you're like me and enjoy scrutinizing product labels in the middle of the isle at Target. (Almost) Everything I know about exfoliants, I learned from Paula.

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This is Part 1 of my 3 part series on chemical exfoliants:

Part 1:  A Beginner's Guide to AHAs & BHAs
Part 2:  10 Things to Know Before Using an AHA or BHA
Part 3:  Do Natural AHA and BHA Alternatives Work?

ALL Acne Experiment Posts are listed at The Acne Experiment MOTHER HUB.

A Beginner's Guide to AHAs and BHAs :: Crappy Candle