Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser Review - The Acne Experiment

Dermalogica and I go way back. I started using their Special Cleansing Gel when I was about 21, enamored by it-must-be-good $50 price tag the fact that it was only available in exclusive stores. This was pre-internet shopping and pre-Ulta. The extent of my high-end beauty knowledge stopped at department store makeup counters and Beverly Hills spas that I've never actually been in. (You get into those places by pressing your oily face to the glass storefront and sliding to the right. That way they know you've chosen them and that you need help.)

Despite my skepticism of Dermalogica these days, I have a soft spot in my heart for the brand. It was my first luxury skincare product, after all. I wanted to give another non-foaming cleanser a shot, and because my skin is proving to be more sensitive with each passing day, their Ultracalming Cleanser seemed like the perfect choice.


Ingredients:

• Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser (Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl, Ropamidobenzoic Acid, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Fumaric Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Panthenol, Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Rosspolymer, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Disodium EDTA.)
• Tretinoin 0.05% cream (this trial was immediately after my 6mo Retin-A trial)
• Jojoba Oil / Tea Tree Oil (10:1 ratio)
• Aztec Healing Clay / ACV Mask

Method:

1. Wet face.
2. Put a chick-pea sized dollop of cleanser on your hand. (it has the consistency of vaseline)
   
   
3. Resist the urge to taste this dollop.
4. Apply the dollop to your face.
5. Use a wet washcloth to towel the cleanser off your face.
6. Rinse well.
7. Apply your oil or moisturizer (if you like to do it pre-treatment to cut down on sensitivity).
8. Wait at least 30 minutes to apply your treatment (mine is Retin-A).
9. Follow-up with some more moisturizer if you need it.

Conclusions:

Ok, what the hell Dermalogica. I counted 29 ingredients in this cleanser, with 1/3 botanical ingredients. For something billed as being for "sensitive" skin, it seems like overkill. Given the number of variables, there's a lot of room for irritation here for someone who reacts to lots of things – ie for someone with sensitive skin.

Here are the botanicals in order (most concentrated to least): bisabolol (chamomile), ginger, radish, cucumber, raspberry, lavender, white willow, lichen, lemon, fumaria officinalis, and echinacea. Some of these ingredients are anti-irritation, while others can be irritating to some skin. It's not an ideal combo, but doesn't necessarily spell doom for everyone.

All is not lost. This stuff has such an nice heft to it and has a very light herbal scent, kind of like soapy tea. I wasn't joking when I said I wanted to eat it.

I tested the cleanser for two weeks. Here are the before/afters:

After week one, things looked clearer, but by week two, I was less enthused (hence my Chrissy Teigen face in the last pic).

I did an acv clay mask on one night during the second week in an attempt to counteract any irritation. For my effort, I got more bumps on my forehead, and a friggin cranberry hanging from the bottom of my chin.

I realize some of this could be due to not having an optimal Retin-A routine in place. Ultimately, however, I decided this cleanser was not ideal for my skin. I might have extended the trial a bit to test other moisturizers or alternate Retin-A schedules, but I don't have enough of the product to do that. I plan to keep it anyway because I'm pretty sure it's edible.*

Up Next:  Bioderma Sensibio H20

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*IT'S NOT EDIBLE DON'T EAT IT DISCLAIMER: It's not edible don't eat it.

PS:  Because it's prone to prone to counterfeiting and other shenanigans, Dermalogica is one of those brands that you should buy only from licensed sellers. I got mine from Planet Beauty because I wanted the bitty trial size and I have a store nearby (they don't sell the little bottles everywhere); Dermalogica is also sold at Ulta, Nordstrom, and straight from the Dermalogica site. I do not recommend buying this product on Amazon.

ALL Acne Experiment Posts are listed at The Acne Experiment MOTHER HUB.

Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser Trial + Review :: The Acne Experiment

All Images © Crappy Candle / The Acne Experiment

How to Buy and Care for a Classic Coach Purse

I haven't written about anything non-acne related in well over 6 months. So today, I'm digging into one of my favorites – classic "vintage" Coach purses:  How to buy a genuine bag, and how to clean and care for 'em.

Coach was known for decades for their super soft, buttery leather bags in classic shapes, simple colors, and trademark brass turn-key hardware. The problem is, about 20 years ago, the Signature "C" and other trendy styles came into vogue, slowly pushing a lot of the original styles out of production.

So where do you get these sweet classic Coach bags if they aren't making the style anymore? Ebay! (for a fraction of what you'd pay for a new Coach!) I wrote about my experience purchasing my first Ebay Coach purse a few years ago, and I like to think I've matured in the time it took me to buy my second Ebay coach purse. This time, I opted for a dowel bag – the Willis:

1997 Made in Italy Black Coach Willis

Let me tell you, it was such a fun experience this time around because some people are dirty filthy liars and will definitely lie to you repeatedly over the Internet if it means getting your sweet classic Coach purse money.

Yes, I got burned. I found a very nice looking Willis on eBay, but it didn't have a picture of the "Coach creed" which is important because the creed helps you verify authenticity. So I contacted the seller (this exchange may contain hyperbole):

Me:  Hey can you send me a picture of the Coach creed on this purse?  

Seller:  Of course my dear sweet eBay buyer. You are such a doll for asking. My daughter will be here in a few days to take a photo, because I cannot figure out how to use a camera. I'm all thumbs! I'm still somehow able to use eBay to communicate with you, post, and sell things. Technology is crazy. I really love you for asking this question.

I got a photo a few days later, checked to make sure it was a legit, and bought the Willis. A little over a week later, I received a Willis with a stretched-out shoulder strap and missing stitches, plus there were bits black stuff on some of the purse brass. I figured the strap was so obviously different that it must have been a mistake.

Me:  Hey the purse is great, and I left you a nice review, but the strap you sent doesn't match the images in the listing. Perhaps it got mixed up with another one. Can you send me the strap shown in the listing? I'm happy to send this one back. 

Seller:  Well no I can't do that. The the photo of your purse had an even worse strap on it, so I sent you a different one. Just request a refund. 

Me:  Huh, that's odd. I don't remember the strap looking bad in the photos. The one I received has sloppy, not original stitching and is so stretched out that it looks like it's going to snap. 

Seller:  Well that's not a weight bearing stitch and stretching is normal, so don't worry about this purse that I roped you into buying with my false advertising. Just request a refund.

Me:  I analyzed the other Coach listings in your shop and I actually found the strap I received on a different purse. Here's the link. It's a really messed up strap.

Seller:  I would never send a strap that I thought was flawed. How dare you question my honor.

Me:  But it's not the strap you put in the listing. 

Seller:  Listen Missy. I have like a million straps, like I have straps coming out of my wherever, but I'm not send you any of them. Just request the damned refund you're driving me nuts, you shrieking harpy.

So I got the refund and went back into the wilds of eBay to find a different Willis, which I still have today. And then, staying true to my nature, I decided it would be a wise use of more of my time to continue researching the first purse I bought. It was only then when I started to realize that maybe the whole purse, and not just the strap, was different from the photos in the listing.

I went on Purse Forum and searched the eBay seller's handle and discovered they were indeed a very naughty eBay seller. This particular person (persons??) is known for using the same pictures over and over to sell different bags, selling counterfeits, being rude to buyers, and for "rehabing" purses by covering them in black shoe polish. Shoe polish. Shoe polish definitely does not belong on Coach leather. (I'll get to this in a moment.)

So there is a point to this story, I promise. Namely, I want to teach ya'll how to properly clean and care for a classic Coach purse. Purse Forum is such a valuable resource, and I fully credit them for this info:

How to Care for a Classic Coach Purse

1.  Gather your materials.

You'll need a washcloth, some white vinegar, a good leather conditioner, and some brass polish if you're feeling crazy. I went with Apple leather care (a lighter conditioner) and Blackrock (a heavier one). Brasso or Flitz is supposed to be great for the brass.

Blackrock, Apple Leather Conditioner, and Fray Check (I'll get to this in a minute.)

2.  Dust it off.

Before you do anything else, clean the inside of purse. Use a dry washcloth to "brush" out the inside. If there are a lot of crumby bits in there, vacuum it. If there are any stains or gunk in there, you can kinda dab it out with a wet washcloth and maybe some dish soap.

Sidenote:  Older Coaches are generally unlined. The inside is like a rough suede, so you can use an old toothbrush or a nubuck brush if a washcloth ain't cuttin' it.

3.  Put your headlamp on. It's about to get frustrating.

If your bag has any loose or missing stitches, get yourself some nice sturdy thread (quilting thread is great), a beading needle (it needs to be super thin), and some Fray Check (thread glue aka "godsend for anxious sewers"). Your home-stitching isn't going to look perfect up close, but it will prevent your purse from falling apart.

Mine had some loose stitching on the handle.

Basically, you guide the sewing needle through the stitch holes in the leather that are already there. It takes some patience as the holes are very small, aren't always aligned, and beading needles are very easily bent. I found a binder clip helpful for aligning the holes. The Fray Check will help keep your stitches in place once you're done stitching.

  


Now clamp it if it's a part that's receptive to clamping and let it dry for about 24hrs.

This is how it looks now.

4. Clean the leather.

Clean off the outside parts of the leather (ie the smooth part) with a damp washcloth and some white vinegar. Q-tips are useful for getting in the cracks. You can "rinse" it by wiping it with plain water, if you like.

5. Clean the brass.

Clean your brass if you're feeling ambitious. If you're using a brass polish, you will need to be careful not to get it on the leather. Because my brass was already pretty clean, I opted for white vinegar on a slightly abrasive cotton pad.

Left: Before cleaning the brass; Right: after cleaning the brass (with vinegar).

I then used a jewelry polishing cloth to get it nice and shiny.

6. Conditioner: Round 1

At this point, you can apply a light leather conditioner like Apple. It kind of functions as a cleanser as well if you apply it with a washcloth.

Rub it in with the washcloth and let it dry for about 1 day.

7. Conditioner: Round 2

You can then apply a second heavier leather conditioner or leather protector to seal everything in. I opted for this step because people on Purse Forum said this particular product (Blackrock) gives a nice "glow" to the leather. You're damn right I want my leather to glow.

  

I applied the Blackrock to both my Penny Pocket Purse and my Willis. Both had a bit of the dye come off on the paper towels I used (this is totally normal).

Let this dry for at least a few hours, and you're ready to go!


Here are some before/afters:

• TIPS

• Be sure to dab the Fray Check on the actual thread (a needle can help you precision-drop it on there). If you get it on the leather, wipe it off with a damp qtip, otherwise you'll get crusties.
• If you have something that needs mending, but it's not stitchable, you can also use a heavy-duty craft adhesive like E6000 or a leather cement like Fiebings.
• Apple can be applied to damp leather, and is great when applied immediately after cleaning. If we're making analogies to hair care, Apple would be like a regular conditioner, while Blackrock is like a deep conditioning mask. 
• Purse Forum says Coach brand conditioners are no good and not recommended for the Classic bags. You can get better products on Amazon (Leather CPR, Obenauf's, Leather Therapy... the forum has a lot of other recs too).
• If you are looking for specific advice, you can always post your questions on the "rehab" forum. There are a million ways to fix up an old Coach, so don't assume your bag is beyond help!
• Generally, you shouldn't have to use any kind of dye on classic coach leather. A quality conditioner will make the color of your bag much richer, to the point where you wouldn't need to dye it anyway. 
• You can do multiple coats of your leather conditioner, as needed. If you're using Apple & Blackrock, do multiple coats of Apple, then do Blackrock as the final coat.
• If you have a particularly messed up classic leather Coach, you can try a full rehab of the purse, which involves soaking the purse in soapy water, rinsing it, stuffing it with tissue, and layering it with a ton of leather conditioner as it dries. I haven't tried it myself, but this thread makes me believe I will someday discover a flattened, unloved Coach at the bottom of a pile of sticky Precious Moments figurines, then restore it to it's former glory.
• If you have a super dry, cracked, i-can-file-my-nails-on-this Coach, you probably aren't going to be able to breath life back into it. Once leather gets to the point that it's lost all it's natural oils, it won't be able to suck any more back up.

And finally, I have some advice for those that want to avoid getting burned on eBay:

How to Buy a Classic Coach Purse (and not get ripped off)

1. Browse eBay for a Coach of your liking. Terms like "vintage" or "Bonnie Cashin" aren't necessary for your query, as sellers don't always get this right anyway. Here are some styles to start with: Court, Legacy, Stewardess, Basic Bag, City Bag, and of course the Willis and the Penny Pocket Purse. (more here)
2. The serial number (ie "Coach Creed") is vital for authenticating Coaches. There are guides online that can help you determine if your find is a counterfeit or not. (Here's one. Here's another. Here's another.)
3. If your listing does not have a photo of the "Coach Creed," and you have to ask for it, proceed with caution. That seller might be trying to dupe you into either buying a counterfeit, or into buying something that is different from what is in the picture.
4. Ebay only shows the last 6 months of reviews, so don't rely solely on seller ratings to decide if they are reputable.
5. Post your find in the authentication forum before purchasing, if you can. (follow the authentication directions and be a good citizen lovies!)
6. Also, do a search in the forum for the seller's name. The people doing the authentications know their stuff, but they don't always catch everything.
7. I'm not going to share the name of the lying eBay seller, so don't ask! They processed the return without issue, and I got all of my money back, so I wasn't out anything. 
8. Don't look at me like that. If you did a search for their name, you'd find it easily in the forum. I don't need to post it here. 
9. Plus, I am reasonably concerned that the seller is not a nice older lady like I imagined her to be, and is actually a vengeful neckbeard who will destroy me, one internet profile at a time.

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PS:  I bought my Willis and took all the pictures for this post about a year ago (I know I know), and am due for another round of conditioning. This is what the purses look like now:

Not bad though, right?

PPS:  Last year, Coach actually brought back some classics along with some vintage-inspired "glove-tanned leather" bags in celebration of their 75th anniversary. I got one (50% off sale woo woo!) because sometimes you gotta treat yo-self yo:

This is the fanciest thing I've ever bought. I kept the cardboard shipping box for months.

Guys, I just couldn't throw the whole thing out. 

How to Buy & Care for a Classic Coach Purse